Being a Vegetarian in France

Ah, French cuisine. Coq au vin,  boeuf bourguignon, foie gras, escargots, quiche lorraine, steak tartare…Notice a theme? Meat has the starring role in many classic French dishes! France also has a notorious reputation for being averse to those who abstain from eating meat. Strictly speaking, I’m a pescatarian, which means I eat a vegetarian diet, but eat fish on occasion. However, as my friends and family can attest, I tend to avoid eating fish as much as I can – which I continued to do when I moved to France. Keep reading to find out my top four takeaways from eating a mostly meat-free diet in France.

1. French People Just Don’t “Get It“

Some of the most popular reactions from French people when I explain my dietary choices include the following:

• “So, you only eat chicken?”
• “Why would you ever do that?”
• “Think of the farmers and butchers!”
• “Wow, I’ve never met a vegetarian before.”

While I am always happy to answer their questions, I have been taken aback more than once by how unpopular a vegetarian diet seems to be in France. Many French people see meat, and especially the work of French butchers, as integral to French culture. Moreover, French school cafeterias encourage the consumption of meat, in accordance with French law, by offering few vegetarian meal options to school children – which I saw first-hand during my time with the Teaching Assistant Program in France (TAPIF). Navigating conversations with French people about vegetarianism while respecting French tradition and culture is an art. I find that striking a balance between courtesy and self-advocacy by politely listening to the French point of view while standing firm in my choice not to consume meat is the key to productive conversation.

2. Self-Advocating

As a person who prefers not to call attention to myself or inconvenience others, expressing that I am a pescatarian each time I am asked to share an apéro, welcomed over for dinner, or invited to eat lunch with my colleagues, is intimidating. In the USA, I am mostly able to avoid such conversations given that many friendly get-togethers, dinner parties, and school lunches offer at least one vegetarian option. Not so in France! As a TAPIF assistant, I had to request special lunches every single time I went to the school restaurant or risk having nothing to eat at all. When I visit French friends for dinner, they often make me a separate meatless dish. Though I sometimes feel embarrassed or as if I am inconveniencing others, the French can be very accommodating. Save for a few sly comments, I never encounter any real problems getting what I need to eat when I politely explain my diet.

3. Dishes You Can Eat

After spending time in France, I’ve amassed a list of go-to dishes that I know to look for when I’m eating out. Though I do miss out on some of the most famous classics that I listed earlier, there are plenty of delicious French meals that vegetarians can enjoy.

• Omelettes: There’s an omelette on practically every café menu and it’s always cooked to perfection!
• Pasta: Pasta is everywhere and often meatless. Penne à l’arrabbiata, a super spicy pasta dish, is my personal favorite.
• Ratatouille: What’s not to love about seasoned mixed veggies? This is one of the French classics that’s already vegetarian!
• Gratin: Buttery, creamy potatoes are always a win, and it’s a pretty easy meal to find!
• Kebab: Turkish food is growing in popularity in France, and any falafel dish is consistently delectable.
• Veggie Burgers: Who knew that veggie burgers could be so accessible in France’s decidedly anti-vegetarian climate? A surprising amount of restaurants offer veggie burgers, and I haven’t met one that I didn’t like!
• Pizza: Pizza is my fail-safe solution. From Margherita, to Quatre Fromages, to Végétarienne, there’s always plenty of choices on the menu.

All in all, there’s a good amount of vegetarian food readily available at restaurants, even in smaller-town France, if you know which dishes to seek out.

4. Changing Attitude

Soy “chicken nuggets,” “meatballs,” and “escalopes” are stocked in many grocery stores. More and more restaurants like Troyes’ Au Flexi Troyen are prioritizing plant-based cuisine. Animal rights groups like L214 have succeeded in bringing to light the cruelty that occurs to create French dishes like foie gras. While France certainly isn’t a vegetarian utopia, it seems that the country no longer lives up to its negative reputation. I’m ecstatic to witness France become more vegetarian-friendly, even if the process is gradual.

Being a pescatarian is important to me, and I consider it an essential piece of my identity. Lucky for me, it’s totally possible to live and eat well in France without eating meat. If you have questions or want to know more, leave us a comment!

Watch us make a vegetarian McBaguette in this video!

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