Experience Vibrant Saint-Malo: Authentic Gastronomy And Local Attractions
Saint-Malo, a coastal city located in Brittany, France on the English Channel, boasts a fascinating history, a lovely coastline, and delicious regional specialties. For these reasons, Jalen and I knew it would be the perfect place to spend a long weekend last May – thanks, jours fériés (French public holidays)! We embarked on the three-hour-long train journey from Paris in search of a vacation by the sea and a short break from work and our daily lives in Palaiseau, and we were not disappointed. We’re excited to show you everything we discovered during our three-day stint in Saint-Malo, from peculiar carved rocks to delectable kouign amann. Whether you’re planning an autumnal getaway or already searching for your next summer vacation spot, we’re willing to bet you’ll want to visit this unique French city for yourself by the end of the article!
Day 1: Must-Sees and Must-Eats
Cavoua Coffee Spot
Our first stop in Saint-Malo was Cavoua Coffee Spot, a cozy place to grab breakfast, lunch, or brunch, located a stone’s throw from our Airbnb. We especially loved the avocado toast (with chunks of Granny Smith apple!).
- More about Cavoua Coffee Spot: https://www.instagram.com/cavoua_coffeespot/
- Visit Cavoua Coffee Spot: 3 Rue des Orbettes, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Cathédrale Saint-Vincent de Saint-Malo
A five-minute stroll brought us to the Cathédrale Saint-Vincent de Saint-Malo, a Romanesque, Gothic church and the burial place of famous French explorer Jacques Cartier. We took a leisurely look around and found the sunlight pouring through the stained glass windows especially beautiful.
- More about the Cathédrale Saint-Vincent de Saint-Malo: https://cathedralesaintmalo.fr/
- Visit the Cathédrale Saint-Vincent de Saint-Malo: Pl. Jean de Châtillon, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Kouign Amann de Saint-Malo
In preparation for an afternoon of exploring, we picked up a buttery Breton speciality to snack on: kouign amann. We had never tasted kouign amann before, and instantly fell in love with these cute, warm, rich pastries!
- More about Kouign Amann de Saint-Malo: https://kouignamanndesaintmalo.com/
- Visit Kouign Amann de Saint-Malo: 6 Rue Porcon de la Barbinais, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Remparts de Saint-Malo
Walking along the Remparts de Saint-Malo was one of the highlights of our trip, and allowed us to get our bearings from day one. We snaked around the fortified walls and took in the views, occasionally popping down and back up a staircase to get a closer look at certain landmarks.
- More about the Remparts de Saint-Malo: https://www.saint-malo-tourisme.com/
- Visit the Remparts de Saint-Malo: 6-2 Rue Guillaume le Gouverneur, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Crêperie Le Corps de Garde
We finished our evening at Crêperie Le Corps de Garde, where we drank Breton cider with galettes de sarrasin (savory buckwheat crêpes) and crêpes de froment (sweet wheat flour crêpes). The restaurant has a historic ambiance, and the waterfront location can’t be beat!
- More about the Crêperie Le Corps de Garde: https://www.facebook.com/lecorpsdegarde/
- Visit the Crêperie Le Corps de Garde: 3 Montée Notre Dame, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Day 2: Long Walks on the Beach
Récit de Voyage
Day two of our trip started at Récit de Voyage (meaning “travelogue”). This coffee shop offers pastries and hot drinks as delectable as the interior design is cute! Jalen enjoyed a chai latte with a croissant au beurre, while I had a cappuccino and a pain au chocolat.
- More about Récit de Voyage: https://recitdevoyage.com/
- Visit Récit de Voyage: 9 R. de la Fosse, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Rochers Sculptés
After a twenty-minute bus ride and a ten-minute walk, we made it to the Rochers Sculptés (carved rocks) in the Rothéneuf neighborhood. Touring the site where French priest Abbé Fouré carved hundreds of fantastical figures into the rocky cliffside in the late 19th and early 20th centuries was an interesting experience. Be warned that the steep slope requires sure-footedness and a pair of outdoor shoes!
- More about the Rochers Sculptés: https://www.st-malo.com/tourisme/rochers-sculptes/
- Visit the Rochers Sculptés: 4 Chem. des Rochers Sculptés, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Colette
From Rothéneuf, it took us 10 minutes by bus to get to Saint-Coulomb, then 15 minutes on foot to get to a beachfront restaurant called Colette. We stuck to the drinks and tapas menu, tasting huîtres creuses n°3 naturelles de Cancale (natural oysters from Cancale), crevettes roses (shrimp), sardines au beurre Bordier (sardines with Bordier butter), houmous et crackers (hummus and crackers), a Caribbean mule, and a Saint-Malo Spritz. This restaurant isn’t cheap, but it was our favorite meal of the trip – and the view was gorgeous!
- More about Colette: https://www.colette.bzh/
- Visit Colette: Plage des Chevrets, 35350 Saint-Coulomb, France
Le Castello
We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening back within the walls of Saint-Malo, and stopped for dinner at Le Castello. Copious portions of pizza stacked with seafood were on the menu (and if that doesn’t entice you, don’t knock it ’til you try it!).
- More about Le Castello: https://www.facebook.com/Le.Castello.fr/
- Visit Le Castello: 5 Rue Jacques Cartier, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Day 3: Souvenir Shopping and Surprise Scaling
Bougeotte
Breakfast at Bougeotte, where local, organic, in-season ingredients are a priority, was a wonderful way to start our last day in Saint-Malo. I highly recommend the brioche maison perdue (homemade French toast) served with maple syrup!
- More about Bougeotte: https://bougeotte.net/
- Visit Bougeotte: 5 Rue du Puits aux Braies, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Souvenir Shopping
We wandered the streets of Saint-Malo for hours, taking in the sunlight and sea air while hunting for souvenirs. Though we have been known to browse tacky tourist shops, our philosophy is to only purchase things that we need (like soap), that we can consume (like food products), or that we will cherish (like this mug).
Crêperie Le Tournesol
Crêperie Le Tournesol’s inviting, homey decor and wide array of sweet and savory crêpes pulled us in for lunch. The best part? Jalen’s galette rustique was served with a tiny portion of glace à la moutarde (mustard ice cream)!
- More about Crêperie Le Tournesol: https://www.creperie-saint-malo.com/
- Visit Crêperie Le Tournesol: 4 Rue des Marins, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Petit Bé
Our afternoon adventures began with a walk across the Plage de Bon-Secours at low tide to the Fort du Petit Bé. After a short climb to the top (please wear adequate outdoor shoes and be prepared to scale a bit!), we were treated to panoramic views of the bay and a guided tour of the restored military fort.
- More about the Petit Bé: https://www.saint-malo-tourisme.com/
- Visit the Petit Bé: Petit Bé, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Grand Bé
We scrabbled down from the Fort du Petit Bé and made our way up to the Grand Bé, where French writer François-René de Chateaubriand is buried. We soaked in the sights and sounds before heading back into town while the tide was still low enough to cross the beach on foot.
- More about the Grand Bé: https://www.saint-malo-tourisme.com/
- Visit the Grand Bé: Grand Bé, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
La Mer à Boire
It was a bit too early to make for the restaurant we had planned for dinner, so we decided to have drinks and appetizers at a wine bar called La Mer à Boire. We both enjoyed a glass of dry white wine, savoring the bar’s relaxing atmosphere.
- More about La Mer à Boire: https://www.instagram.com/lameraboiresaintmalo/
- Visit La Mer à Boire: 10 Rue du Puits aux Braies, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Crêperie Grain Noir
You might be thinking, “more crêpes?!” Yes, we just couldn’t get enough of this traditional dish! We’re pleased to say that while the food was delectable, our favorite aspect of this restaurant was the service (and we almost never say that about French restaurants)!
- More about Crêperie Grain Noir: https://www.instagram.com/creperie_grainnoir/
- Visit Crêperie Grain Noir: 16 Rue de la Herse, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Ty’papo
Our final stop in Saint-Malo was Ty’papo, an artisanal ice cream shop serving up tons of unique flavors. Jalen picked amarena, and I had kouign amann!
- More about Ty’papo: https://www.eric-elien.bzh/
- Visit Ty’papo: 2 Rue Jacques Cartier, 35400 Saint-Malo, France
Travel Tips for Saint-Malo
- Check the tides before beach visits or walking to the Petit Bé and the Grand Bé. These islands are only accessible at low tide, and you don’t want to get stranded when the water comes back in!
- Don’t forget to pack sturdy shoes with good grip if you’re considering visiting the Rochers Sculptés or the Fort du Petit Bé, where the terrain can be steep, uneven, and slippery.
- Download Saint-Malo’s public transit app, Réseau MAT, to navigate the city by bus. You can purchase tickets at the tourism office, which is also a helpful stop for local recommendations.
- Make restaurant reservations whenever possible. We had to wait a good while to be seated at the more popular spots, so if you have your heart set on eating somewhere in particular, think about reserving in advance.
- Consider visiting outside the summer high season. Saint-Malo can be very crowded from June to September. We went in May and found it lively but not overwhelming.
Our stay in Saint-Malo was filled with blue skies, salty air, and incredible meals. While the city is charming, it definitely caters to tourists, so if you’re looking for a more off-the-beaten-path vibe, Saint-Malo may not be for you. However, if, like Jalen and I, you love vacations that are a feast for your eyes and stomach, give Saint-Malo a try!
2 Comments
ProfP
I was there at the very end of August, and it was busy but not overwhelming. Enjoyed Le Tournesol! Highlight for me was a boat trip from Cancale – didn’t see any dolphins but could admire the coastline from offshore.
Jalen & Maria
Glad to hear you had a positive experience in Saint-Malo!